Tourist Guilt

At the beginning of our trip here, time seemed endless, and now as we have merely a matter of days I have to be more selective about what I get to do in Rome. Here is when tourist guilt particularly sets in. What have I been doing these past six weeks? What haven't I seen yet, what are those places that everyone who visits Rome hears about and always means to see? And I am also torn by questions like what is worth seeing again and which of my favorite places should I go back to? In this last week, I will try to frame my entries to respond to these questions.

Global World

When one thinks of cities, one often considers its international factors. New York is a space of food, shopping, and entertainment from around the world. London too is seen as an international city with a variety of communities and food from allover, particularly its former colonies. Rome too had its colonial ambitions, but the city is cast for tourists as essentially Italian and little else. But with an official population over three milllion, Italy is home to people throughout the world, especially Africa and South East Asia. Pockets of African and Asian jewelry and clothing shops, and Indian and Asian restaurants (primarily Chinese and Japanese) are undoubtedly seen throughout the city. In the streets above Merulana and near Termini (by Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), you'll find one such pocket, where one can buy Bohemian crystal from a Bangladeshi, Black Indian Silver from an Italian, and enjoy Korean food prepared by Koreans. As if Rome wasn't already an overwhelming city with all its great Italian food, wine, and traditional leather goods, there are all sorts of other styles and tastes available just around the corner.

Where to Get Away

If the speed, noise, and endless bustle of the city have you looking for a break, visit one of Rome's many parks, such as Villa Celimontana. On a late Sunday afternoon you'll find it packed with Romans, many with a bambino or two, or at least a small dog. Some have brought various games, some are singing, others just nap in the afternoon sun. Many have brought entire tables and picnics with full roasted chickens and grilled veggies. Bring yourself a blanket and settle in the grass to either people watch or follow the parrots as they fly from the high pines trees with building materials for their nests in the palms. You might catch a familiar word or two in English, but for the most part the park is also tourist free.

The Gatti of Rome

Throughout Rome you will find it's little guardians, the gatti. Stray cats are prominent throughout the city, and you will often see Romans leaving little plates of food out for them. Two places in the city specifically cater to the stray cats, the sanctuary at the Protestant Cemetery and the sanctuary at Torre Argentina. Both places see the cats as guardians. The sanctuaries are different, and the one at Torre Argentina runs a rather sophisticated charity which spays and neuters strays and adopts out former pets. The Protestant Cemetery has fewer cats and they generally seem less feral; more seek out attention. They appear to have been primarily former pets rather than street cats. This photo is of a particularly friendly little cat from the Protestant Cemetery. Of note: should one be concerned about any threat from these cats, Rabies is essentially non-existent in Italy. If they approach you, it's just because they're friendly. To read more of the history of cats in Rome check out "Go Europe".

Where to Park It

This weekend and last taught me a couple of lessons about hotels in Italy. Certainly one can (and perhaps should) use major search engines such as Expedia, but I have learned a couple of important lessons. Read the reviews! Should you pick the cheap place anyway, at least you will know that you need to bring earplugs to deal with the noise. Make sure you are clear about whether or not you will be sharing the bathroom with other rooms--I take private bathrooms as a given in the States, it's not here in Rome. But my biggest piece of advice is pay close attention to the location of a hotel. "In Sorrento" can mean a twenty minute bus ride from the town, and your lucky if the bus is regular or even an option at all. It isn't always clear where the central area in a town is, or if the central area is even what you want to see (because maybe it's "old town" or some other section), but the more informed you are going into it, you're probably better off.

Amalfi Coast

Come to Italy and everyone will seem to mention the importance of visiting the Amalfi Coast--they're not wrong. While a good half day trip from Rome, it's worth a visit. We stayed in Sorrento, about an hour train ride from Naples and a rather bustling tourist destination (although mostly Brits). Tourism is really the only game in town, and there are countless hotels, restaurants, and cheap souvenir shops. Sorrento is much quieter than its neighbor

Naples but still has the lodging and food options to make it a good hub for your Amalfi adventures, especially if you are doing things on the a tight budget. The streets wind high into the hills, giving you great views of the surrounding citrus groves and turquoise ocean--they will also give you strong calves.

An hour ferry ride will also take you from Sorrento to Positano, an even more picturesque hill town. Smaller and more uniformed, its buildings feel almost carved out of the hills. Bright purple and fuchsia bougainvillea spill over terraces and hibiscus, birds of paradise, and amaryllis stand out sharply from white walls in their terracotta pots. Pasitano is also slightly more upscale than Sorrento and you should expect to spend another 20% or so on your food--although it seemed worth it. The town has galleries and upscale boutiques and the tourism feels directed to a wealthier class. It also feels a little like shopping at the Northern Oregon Coast. A half day in town seemed sufficient to wander some beautiful shops, take in a great meal, and realize that no one in town seemed be selling a simple cappuccino from the bar or have a little green grocery or market to make a basic meal of bread, cheese, and fruit. Positano was a beautiful place to visit, but felt a little out of my league.

Just a Small Town Girl

Rome looks so unlike any American city that sometimes I forget that it is in fact a city. However, today was the Festa della Repubblica, and much of the major roadways have been closed this week and particularly today for the events and people came from all over Italy to celebrate in the city. Life in Italy explains: "June 2nd marks the day in 1946 when Italy voted in a referendum to abolish the monarchy and become a republic. Support for the monarchy had plunged because the king of Italy had supported Mussolini. So hostile was the public, that the royal family was exiled from Italy forever as punishment." Events included a bike race that ended in Rome on Sunday and a military parade today. Both these events made traversing back to me home, which is just past the Coliseum and thus major road ways, extremely difficult. Many stores, places to eat, and even the metro were also closed, making everyday details a little more difficult. Traveling tip: pay attention to the major holidays!