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Rome has several catacombs. The last time I was here my attempted visit to them failed, and I had two failed attempts earlier this trip. But today we finally made it. The main ones are out on Apia way, and it's an easy bus ride to them. Although the area is not far, just outside of the original walls of Rome, you find yourself in pastures with country villas, and the Saint Callixtus catacombs are located in a park like area, with winding paths, and bikers and runners. I'm not sure if it was a because of our guide (P. Owen Mason; he was outstanding), but our tour particularly stressed the religious elements of the catacombs. He explained how many of those buried there were martyred "witnessing their faith" (ie, killed because they were Christian) and how the site was a secret holy place for early Christians in the 2nd and 3rd centuries and later an important spot for pilgrims (9th century). Being shoved between various tour groups all striving to take some posed picture in the Pantheon (or any other location), whose behavior seems unholly, one sometimes forgets how Rome has been a religious tourist destination for two thousand years. Our guide today was a priest (at least I think so, he had a collar, but my knowledge of Catholic practices is limited) and it was interesting to have a reading of a tourist site so clearer grounded in religion. Obviously the site itself invites it too. But our guide also made sure to convey that we shouldn't see the place as sad (there are over 500,000 tombs, many to children) or scary (over 20 kilometers of dark, weaving passages), because for Christians death is not the end and indeed many of the symbols found in the catacombs stressed peace, salvation, and reunification with loved ones. It's a nice perspective, even for a heathen like myself.

The site is a great, quiet destination, close to the city. The grounds are grassy, peaceful, and bucolic. The catacombs themselves are interesting. But if one needs another reason, visit the catacombs because being twenty meters underground also drops the temperature and it is comfortably chilly.

Old Haunts

In an effort to escape the scorching Roman heat, I headed out to Trastevere, the area I lived in the last time I was in Rome. Breeze off the Ganiculum often softens the heat, and overhead trees along the river and those lining many of the streets drop the overall temperature by at least a few precious degrees. Trastevere is often filled with tourists, but its mostly a hot night spot, for dinner and drinks, and Friday during the day its mostly empty. My mission was to find the Corsini Galleria. Located on huge grounds filled with trees, the museum is rather small. For four euro, though, it's less expensive than many of the larger museums, and one gets to spend some almost intimate time (the museum, even on Friday, was largely empty) with a particularly beautiful Caravaggio. Taking pictures is not allowed, and this image is from Wikipedia. Afterward, I winded my way back through the streets to the many cafes and enjoyed some lunch with the various ex-pats (this one English) who tend to inhabited the trendy region of Trastevere.

Where to Get Away

If the speed, noise, and endless bustle of the city have you looking for a break, visit one of Rome's many parks, such as Villa Celimontana. On a late Sunday afternoon you'll find it packed with Romans, many with a bambino or two, or at least a small dog. Some have brought various games, some are singing, others just nap in the afternoon sun. Many have brought entire tables and picnics with full roasted chickens and grilled veggies. Bring yourself a blanket and settle in the grass to either people watch or follow the parrots as they fly from the high pines trees with building materials for their nests in the palms. You might catch a familiar word or two in English, but for the most part the park is also tourist free.

Amalfi Coast

Come to Italy and everyone will seem to mention the importance of visiting the Amalfi Coast--they're not wrong. While a good half day trip from Rome, it's worth a visit. We stayed in Sorrento, about an hour train ride from Naples and a rather bustling tourist destination (although mostly Brits). Tourism is really the only game in town, and there are countless hotels, restaurants, and cheap souvenir shops. Sorrento is much quieter than its neighbor

Naples but still has the lodging and food options to make it a good hub for your Amalfi adventures, especially if you are doing things on the a tight budget. The streets wind high into the hills, giving you great views of the surrounding citrus groves and turquoise ocean--they will also give you strong calves.

An hour ferry ride will also take you from Sorrento to Positano, an even more picturesque hill town. Smaller and more uniformed, its buildings feel almost carved out of the hills. Bright purple and fuchsia bougainvillea spill over terraces and hibiscus, birds of paradise, and amaryllis stand out sharply from white walls in their terracotta pots. Pasitano is also slightly more upscale than Sorrento and you should expect to spend another 20% or so on your food--although it seemed worth it. The town has galleries and upscale boutiques and the tourism feels directed to a wealthier class. It also feels a little like shopping at the Northern Oregon Coast. A half day in town seemed sufficient to wander some beautiful shops, take in a great meal, and realize that no one in town seemed be selling a simple cappuccino from the bar or have a little green grocery or market to make a basic meal of bread, cheese, and fruit. Positano was a beautiful place to visit, but felt a little out of my league.

Perugia

The sleeping little town of Perugia is located about a three hour train ride from Rome (people might tell you its only two, but in my experience train times are always underestimated). The city is located atop various hills and gives you a beautiful view of most of Umbria, and the views are incredible. The architecture of old town Perugia is different than much of Rome and feels more fairy tale-like, in part because its more uniform and feels less chaotic. On many buildings you will find carved Griffins, the symbol of Perugia, and this adds to the medieval ambiance. The city itself also moves with a little less speed; more areas are dedicated to pedestrians and while there are certainly other visitors to the city, one doesn't have to compete with the crowds. If you are looking for a quiet getaway, check out Perugia.

The Foutains of Rome

Rome is known for its beautiful fountains, and in the summer they become particularly valuable. Some have become the stuff of legends, such as the Trevi fountain, pictured here in a less dramatic state than its infamous appearances in films. It's nice to remember that even the ancient wonders of Rome need a little upkeep. The Trevi fountain and the three main fountains in Piazza Nuvona are sites of constant tourist involvement. At night, lit up, they are rather charming, but I also enjoy the more forgotten pieces of the city. While Fontana delle Tartarughe is not carved by the famous Bernini, nor does it have the same quality, it's a nice little piece. The original fountain only included the dolphins and the youths and a later sculptor added the turtles. It's a clever addition and gives a sense of kindheartedness to the piece.

Peace and Rest in Rome

The Protestant Cemetery packs a lot into a small space. Hidden behind the busy Pyramide train station, it is a cat sanctuary, botanical garden, park, and cemetery combined. It is also a tourist site. While endless Roman churches have prepared me to see sacred spaces as also places of spectacle for visitors, taking pictures in a place of grief created some discomfort for me. That being said, it's also one of my favorite places in Rome. It's significantly cooler, quieter, and more beautiful than much of the city. The kitties tend to be more friendly than the feral cats at most sanctuaries and the volunteer staff is also very friendly. The space also helps remind one just how many Catholics really live in Rome, as the "Protestant Cemetery" serves all non-Catholics, including many of the visiting population and the city's Jewish population. Certain graves are considered of special interest, including Keats, Shelley, and Gramsci. In my opinion, it's the overall ambiance that makes the space special.

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

My first real introduction to a Catholic church was a Gothic church in Cobh Ireland, and perhaps that has mad me particularly inclined toward Gothic churches in general. Despite the fact that Rome has more than its fair share of churches, Santa Maria sopra Minerva is considered the only Gothic example. Minerva was also one of my first introductions to the churches in Rome.

One element of Minerva that I find particularly striking is its elephant. Sculptured by Bernini, I don’t find it particularly representative of his other work, but I still find it a pretty good rendition of an elephant and indicative of the general quality of his art. In part because she reminds me of Lucy, a wooden elephant in Margate New Jersey, I enjoy the sculpture (even though she predates Lucy by several hundred years). Yet such is bound to be the case with any US comparison.

The second reason I enjoy the church is the lighting. Santa Maria sopra Minerva is decidedly darker than most Roman churches. The Gothic element includes dark colored stained glass rather than the high clear windows of most other churches one sees in Rome. Also the marble in the church is often shadowy; gold text shines from a deep grey background. The watchers of the church, whoever they may, play off these themes. The lighting and the closed main doors keep the interior dim compared to many other of the places of worship one might visit. Perhaps the ambiance also affects the mood of the visitor. I often find Minerva a little emptier and a little less frequented by tour groups then other destinations. I enjoy the solitude. Perhaps because of the ways that the church is an outlier of the experience of Rome, I find it particularly moving.

Rome and the "Natural World"

I have been a little surprised by the presence of nature in Rome. The swallows who swoop out over the terrace in the morning and evening are a pleasant surprise. The gull who cries outside my window during my nap is not. While I have always found gulls to be rather annoying, they seem worse here. First, they are unexpected. Rome is not far from the beach, but I don't normally see gulls in cities. Also, they are loud, and they are loud in various ways! Sometimes they seem to cry like a whinny cat (specifically, they sound like Siamese) and these cries will go on for several minutes. Other times they give short, loud, startling shouts that sound almost like someone laughing or a donkey baying. I'm not a fan of any of the noises they make.

More exciting than the gulls are the parrots that seem to live up in the park on Monte Celio. While I have seen some soaring above me up into the palms and pines, I more frequently hear them bickering with each other up in the trees. They appear to be on the smaller side and are mostly all green. The park also has a little fountain with huge koi and smallish turtles. Children (and me) flock around the fountain watching the fish and turtles. The turtles are so tame they even let you touch their shells (which is actually not as exciting as I had thought). I had not expected little natural treats in the city, but I intend to find more.