Perugia

The sleeping little town of Perugia is located about a three hour train ride from Rome (people might tell you its only two, but in my experience train times are always underestimated). The city is located atop various hills and gives you a beautiful view of most of Umbria, and the views are incredible. The architecture of old town Perugia is different than much of Rome and feels more fairy tale-like, in part because its more uniform and feels less chaotic. On many buildings you will find carved Griffins, the symbol of Perugia, and this adds to the medieval ambiance. The city itself also moves with a little less speed; more areas are dedicated to pedestrians and while there are certainly other visitors to the city, one doesn't have to compete with the crowds. If you are looking for a quiet getaway, check out Perugia.

Tricked by a Macroglossum Stellatarum

This weekend, Mia, my folks, and I went to a flower show in Perugia. The show itself was nice and had plants from all over the world, including an extensive collection of citrus trees that seemed local, and orchids and carnivorous plants from around the world. Being unable to take any of the plants with us made the show a little harder to enjoy. We did, however, see what seemed to be the smallest hummingbird in the world! Several of them fluttered among the flowers. We were so excited by our sighting we told everyone, including a friend who informed us the truth about our sighting. We had seen a hummingbird hawk--a creature who cleverly looks, hums, and hovers just like a hummingbird but is nothing more than a weird little moth. I have been duped by nature before, but the discovery was a little disappointing--insects are just not as exciting as animals. You can read more about the Macroglossum here, which is where I also found this photograph.

The Foutains of Rome

Rome is known for its beautiful fountains, and in the summer they become particularly valuable. Some have become the stuff of legends, such as the Trevi fountain, pictured here in a less dramatic state than its infamous appearances in films. It's nice to remember that even the ancient wonders of Rome need a little upkeep. The Trevi fountain and the three main fountains in Piazza Nuvona are sites of constant tourist involvement. At night, lit up, they are rather charming, but I also enjoy the more forgotten pieces of the city. While Fontana delle Tartarughe is not carved by the famous Bernini, nor does it have the same quality, it's a nice little piece. The original fountain only included the dolphins and the youths and a later sculptor added the turtles. It's a clever addition and gives a sense of kindheartedness to the piece.

Hot Town, Summer in the City

It may not be officially summer in Rome, but it officially feels like it. On this muggy, uncomfortable day, I have decided to blog about the some of "cooler" elements of Rome. The city has several quiet spots and parks (like the Protestant Cemetery, where I photographed this flower) that are shaded by trees and other vegetation. Not only do these places feel literally cooler because of the grass and trees, they are also places that can remind you what warm climates can provide. Unless indoors, this Amaryllis won't grow in State College. And while they're elusive, the parrots that are housed in the park on Monte Celio (which also contains this arched chapel-like space) aren't found in more temperate places.

Rome is also a place for great, chilled wines, and I specifically enjoy the frizzantes. Frizzantes, according to "Life in Italy" and in my personal experience, are less carbonated than Spumantes. Sparking wine can be found in both reds and whites. I am not sure why frizzantes are not found in the United States (at least, that I have seen). They may be merely unpopular or they are regulated so as not to be exported. But on a hot day, a nice class of chilled slightly sparkling red wine is refreshing and helps combat the heat.

Peace and Rest in Rome

The Protestant Cemetery packs a lot into a small space. Hidden behind the busy Pyramide train station, it is a cat sanctuary, botanical garden, park, and cemetery combined. It is also a tourist site. While endless Roman churches have prepared me to see sacred spaces as also places of spectacle for visitors, taking pictures in a place of grief created some discomfort for me. That being said, it's also one of my favorite places in Rome. It's significantly cooler, quieter, and more beautiful than much of the city. The kitties tend to be more friendly than the feral cats at most sanctuaries and the volunteer staff is also very friendly. The space also helps remind one just how many Catholics really live in Rome, as the "Protestant Cemetery" serves all non-Catholics, including many of the visiting population and the city's Jewish population. Certain graves are considered of special interest, including Keats, Shelley, and Gramsci. In my opinion, it's the overall ambiance that makes the space special.

Italian Neighbors

While I am pretty sure that getting stuck in an elevator is one of the worst ways to fully realize the extent of the language barrier, it is a decent opportunity to meet your neighbors. Matt and I spend a solid hour stuck between floor three and four yesterday afternoon, accompanied by a bag of garbage and perhaps fifty sugar ants. With Mia and our neighbors' help, the elevator repairman was called, and showed up in decent time. For the half-dozen or so people who happened to walk down the stairs during our stint in the elevator, we did our best to convey that we were ok, yes, it was stuck, and that someone was supposedly helping us. I pride myself on my nonverbal skills, but this adventure proved their limit. The majority of our neighbors seemed mostly annoyed to have to walk up the stairs, but we left at least one poor young woman slightly panicked and she (and her ancient grandmother) did their best to free us. Matt may be of a different opinion, but I think getting stuck in an Italian elevator is preferable to an American. While it seems a little flimsy and you are perhaps more scared of falling to your death, it was also made primarily out of wire, which made it easier to communicate to the outside, easier to get air (although it was still caldo!), and pretty easy to force the doors open and climb out of when we were finally rescued.

Baygon!

Traveling tip: Should you decide to come live in Rome (which I recommend), consider bringing ant traps. Sugar ants, as it turns out, are not merely a North American species. Both times I have been here (which I know is a rather small 'n') we have shared our apartments with ant friends. Rome, of course, also sells ant poison. It's called "baygon" but either it is not very effective or I can't figure out how to use it correctly.