Thursday, May 21, 2009

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

My first real introduction to a Catholic church was a Gothic church in Cobh Ireland, and perhaps that has mad me particularly inclined toward Gothic churches in general. Despite the fact that Rome has more than its fair share of churches, Santa Maria sopra Minerva is considered the only Gothic example. Minerva was also one of my first introductions to the churches in Rome.

One element of Minerva that I find particularly striking is its elephant. Sculptured by Bernini, I don’t find it particularly representative of his other work, but I still find it a pretty good rendition of an elephant and indicative of the general quality of his art. In part because she reminds me of Lucy, a wooden elephant in Margate New Jersey, I enjoy the sculpture (even though she predates Lucy by several hundred years). Yet such is bound to be the case with any US comparison.

The second reason I enjoy the church is the lighting. Santa Maria sopra Minerva is decidedly darker than most Roman churches. The Gothic element includes dark colored stained glass rather than the high clear windows of most other churches one sees in Rome. Also the marble in the church is often shadowy; gold text shines from a deep grey background. The watchers of the church, whoever they may, play off these themes. The lighting and the closed main doors keep the interior dim compared to many other of the places of worship one might visit. Perhaps the ambiance also affects the mood of the visitor. I often find Minerva a little emptier and a little less frequented by tour groups then other destinations. I enjoy the solitude. Perhaps because of the ways that the church is an outlier of the experience of Rome, I find it particularly moving.

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